Monday, November 24, 2025

Iolani Palace, Honolulu HI

Back in the day, Hawai'i had a monarchy. It was a group of islands that were ruled individually until 1795 when Kamehameha I unified the islands under his rule. The monarchy lasted less than 100 years and was overthrown by European and American businessmen.

Here's a quick run down: Kamehameha I ruled from 1793 - 1819 when he died. He was succeeded by his son, Liholiho. When crowned, the son became known as Kamehameha II. This guy and his wife had gone to England to visit the Queen when they were both struck by measles and died. This was in 1824. 

Liholiho's younger brother took over and called himself Kamehameha III. He was only 12 so he had a co-regent. It was his stepmother. She died when he was 18 so he took a wife. He was very interested in western ways but still wanted to keep his own culture. He had the longest reign of all when he died in 1854.

Next came KIII's adopted son, Alexander Liholiho. When he came to power, he called himself Kamehameha IV. He married Emma Rooke. You see Queen Emma's name around Honolulu quite a bit. KIV was interested in educating his people and providing health care. He opened the Queen Emma Hospital. He also resisted the push by the American government to become a state. KIV had severe asthma and died in 1863. His brother took over and called himself Kamehameha V but died in 1872 with no named heir.

With no named heir, there was an election and William Lunalilo won. He was the grand-nephew of King Kamehameha I. He was elected in 1873 but unfortunately, he died within a year. Since he didn't name and heir either, there was another election held. This time Queen Emma (she was married to KIV) ran against David Kalakaua. David won and he's the guy that built the palace.
This is the front of the palace which was built in 1882. David was very high tech and had all the latest and greatest things like electricity, indoor plumbing and a new fangled gadget called a telephone. The original palace was built by KIII back in 1845. By the time David took over, the place was falling apart. He ordered it torn down and had this new version rebuilt.
The coronation pavilion. When Kalakaua won the election, Queen Emma's supporters were not happy and they caused a riot. The Marines had to be called in to quell the masses. Kalakaua was sworn in quickly the next day. As a result, he didn't have a fancy coronation ceremony. In 1883, he had the pavilion built on the palace grounds and held the ceremony here. Today the pavilion is used by the Royal Hawaiian Band.
This is the Hale Koa or Iolani Barracks. Built in 1871, the building was used to house the Royal Guard. It was originally located where the state capitol is now. It's a block structure with a courtyard in the center. It once had a mess hall, kitchen, dispensary, berth room and lock up. The building was moved to this location in 1965. Now it has the ticket office and the gift shop as well as a video theater.
When you walk into the palace from the front door, this is your view. This is the grand hall with this beautiful staircase. Around the room are portraits of the Hawaiian monarchy. In the niches are various items collected by the family from around the world. The Grand Hall runs the width of the palace.
A small waiting area. It's between the Grand Hall and the Blue Room.
When facing the stairs in the grand hall, if you turn to the left and go into the next room, you enter the Blue Room. This is where Kalakaua would have informal audiences or smaller receptions. 
In the Blue Room there's a portrait of Queen Lili'uokalani, sister of Kalakaua along with the dress that she wore in the portrait. When he was sworn in, Kalakaua immediately named his brother as his successor. Unfortunately, his brother died in 1877 so David named his sister, Lili'uokalani as his heir. She was his regent as he traveled the world.
There is also a portrait of David Kalakaua as well.
If you walk into the next room, you come to the state dining room. The table is set with Bohemian crystal and Paris porcelain. The portraits on the wall are of foreign leaders of the time. Kalakaua sat in the middle of the table (in the biggest chair) so that he could converse with all his guests.
Cross the Grand Hall to the other side of the palace and you enter the Throne Room. It runs the width of the palace as well. It's the largest room in the palace. This is where Kalakaua would hold formal audiences, diplomatic receptions and state balls. It was also in this room that the trial of Queen Lili'uokalani took place. Note the two throne's in the back. They were for King Kalakaua and Queen Kapi'olani. When greeting their guests, they preferred to stand rather than sit on the throne.
King David Kalakaua's coronation outfit.
Queen Kapi'olani's coronation dress and robe.
The crowns that were made for the 1883 coronation.
The upstairs hall. We didn't climb that beautiful staircase. We took an elevator.
The top of the grand staircase.
The first room is the King's bedroom. It's right off the staircase to the right when coming up the right side of the stairs.
Next to the King's bedroom was his library. It was here that he had the latest technology: a telephone!
The last room on this side of the palace was the music room or the "Gold Room". The royal family liked listening to and playing music. The restoration team had tons of photos to use to recreate this room. 
A view from the window of the music room. The Royal Hawaiian Band is playing outside.
On the other side of the hall from the King's bedroom is the Queen's bedroom. Red seems to be a favorite color of the royal family. 
The Queen's bathroom. They had running water and flushing toilets in this palace!
Next to the Queen's room is another guest room. In here they have Queen Kapi'olani's peacock feather gown. It features peacock feathers cascading down the gown and was worn by the queen at Queen Victoria's 1887 Golden Jubilee. This is a replica of that dress.
This is a replica of the lilac ostrich feather dress worn by Queen Lili'uokalani in 1891 after she became Queen. In December of 1890, King Kalalaua sailed to San Francisco and then on to Santa Barbara where he suffered a minor stroke. On January 20, 1891, he died and his sister took over as Queen. Then ten days later, her husband died. 

In 1893, she tried to re-write the constitution to bring back power to the throne and to restore rights to the native people of Hawai'i. Instead, she was deposed and a provisional government was set up with Sandford Dole as President. She relinquished the throne to avoid bloodshed.
Queen Lili'uokalani sent a letter to Grover Cleveland asking for help. He asked if she would give amnesty to the usurpers and she said no. That did not help her cause. She later changed her stance but it was too late. In 1895, her supporters staged a rebellion but it failed and she was arrested. Her trial was held in the Throne room. She was found guilty and imprisoned in this room for eight months. She was denied any visitors except for one lady companion. The two women made this quilt while they were imprisoned in the room.
In 1896, The Republic of Hawai'i pardoned Queen Lili'uokalani and restored her rights as a citizen. She moved back into Washington Place, the home she shared with her husband, John Owen Dominis. She continued to fight to regain her lands but was never successful. She lived here until she died in 1917. The governor of Hawaii at the time gave her a state funeral in the throne room.
The statue of Queen Lili'uokalani.

In 1895, Hawai'i was annexed by the United States and the Iolani Palace was used as a government building. In 1930, it was remodeled and in 1935, the name 'Iolani Palace' was restored. During WWII, the palace served as HQ for the military government. It stayed a government building for the next few years, In 1962, it was named a National Landmark. In 1966, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places. 

In 1978, it opened to the public as a museum. By then all the furniture and belongings of the monarchy had been sold. The museum is trying to find them and buy them back.

Hawai'i became a state in 1959.

If you're in Honolulu and need a break from the beach, this place is worth a visit.

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